On Maryland's Chesapeake Bay
Talbot County offers the perfect balance of rural simplicity and urban refinement. Home to sophisticated small towns, waterman’s villages and more than 600 miles of Chesapeake Bay waterfront, it’s the treasure of Maryland's Eastern Shore.
Renowned galleries and museums, award-winning restaurants, and luxurious spas pair with an eclectic collection of boutiques and antique stores, bed and breakfasts, and historic attractions.
There's a season for art, film, food and music festivals and a season for quiet and calm, ranking this as a go-to destination for both action-packed adventures and relaxing retreats.
Accessibility by car, boat and small plane make it ideal for long weekends for travelers from D.C., Philly and New York.
JAMES MICHENER’S CHESAPEAKE
Talbot County, Maryland….Spanning over 300 years, Michener’s Chesapeake follows the lives and fortunes of four families who both shaped and were shaped by the Eastern Shore. The village of Patamoke is a composite of several towns in the area, but the Choptank River and other sites are authentic. Spend a day tracing the real footsteps of James Michener and the fictional ones of the “Turlocks, Steeds, Paxmores and Caters”.
St Michaels is one of the towns that was incorporated into Patamoke. St Michaels was actually bombarded one early morning during the War of 1812. But the wily locals hung lanterns in the trees, so the British aimed too high and mostly missed the buildings. Only the Cannonball House on Green Street was hit. Leaving St Michaels towards Tilghman, look for Railroad Avenue. Michener lived in a house at the end of this street while working on Chesapeake.
The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum is the perfect place to see log canoes and other wooden boats that played such a vital role in the life on the Bay. There is always a vessel under construction in the Boat Building Shed. Buy Boats, like Mr. Jim, were used to circuit the Bay and purchase the day’s catch from the watermen. These boats carried their purchases into port while allowing watermen the opportunity to continue with their harvest.
The Museum’s efforts to save the remaining working Skipjacks helped to earn one of the National Trust For Historic Preservation’s Eleven Most Endangered Places for 2002. The Skipjack Rosie Parks is docked at the Museum, while the E.C. Collier is the focal point of the display called “Oystering on the Chesapeake,” which demonstrates the hard work of harvesting the bivalves.
Easton: The original manuscript for the novel is kept at the Talbot County Free Library. The library in Easton is now open at its temporary quarters at 28712 Glebe Road. It’s not on public display, but the Maryland Room, where Michener did much of his research, is open during the library’s normal hours, Monday 9-9, Tuesday/Wednesday 9-6, Thursday/Friday 9-5 and Saturday 9-1. (Open until 9 on Thursday’s and 5 on Saturdays in the summer.) Closed on Sundays.
The Third Haven Meeting House mentioned as the place the Quaker family Paxmore worshipped is located at 405 South Washington Street. It’s the oldest religious building in continuous use in the country.
In Oxford, Michener wrote the original outline for the novel in the tavern of the Robert Morris Inn. He frequently ate there, and declared more than once that the crab cakes served at the Inn were the best on the Eastern Shore.
Stop at Cutts and Case Shipyard to see Byeberry, the oldest house in Oxford, possibly dating to 1668, as well as several other historic homes. Visitors can watch workers build elegant wood yachts, combining traditional materials with state-of-the-art engineering and design.
Tilghman Island is a watermens community and is home to the Skipjacks, the Retrievers and the independent people who are more at home on the Bay than on its shores. Continue through town to Black Walnut Point. Park in the lot at the end of the road by the radar station and amble through the refuge, maintained by the Department of Natural Resources. It’s open 8am until 5pm daily. The view east across the Choptank River includes the spot where the fictional Devon Island was located.